How to Zero Your Aimpoint Video

Aimpoint sells red dot sights to customers all over the world, not only US Army, but also people in the Middle East and even here in Europe.

Eric is going to take us through the factory recommended procedure on zeroing an Aimpoint. Eric, if you’d take it away.

I use this type of zeroing target because I think it’s easy. It’s easy for the customer to use. What we have here is one circle in the center. There you should aim. You should put red up in there. That is the only time when I will tell you to, but you should have a small dot as possible so you really get the subject. Otherwise it always should be over the sights. You aim here and the goal is that we should have the impact close to this small circle down there with the ballistic you have with this weapon.

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This is a zeroing target for 25 meters.

Yup. We will use that 25 meters.

Very similar to the one I’ve always used historically speaking. It’s aim here at 25, and you want to hit about two inches low in the United States. What I tend to do is take my students back to a hundred or two hundred or whatever to conform that zero. Is that something you recommend to do?

You know, when you’ve been shooting at 25, go up to 50, then 100, 150 to 200 meters. So you see that you really have the 200 meters zeroing.

So you take it back in kind of a stair step fashion.


Good deal. Well, we’re going to go back and light up a G36 with a micro coming up.

All right, we don’t want to take anything for granted. We’ll have Eric, the subject matter expert here, take us through mounting a micro the Aimpoint way.

We got micro sight in the box, and when you open it up you will see you have the sight. You will have a tube and you will have a 2032 battery. To install the battery, you use the tube, put it here, turn it around and you got the cap away. You put in the 2032 battery, place it there, put the cap on, use the tool again and then you really seal it, because you have a sealing sight here and have to go all the way so you can have it constantly on for 5 years on setting number eight.

After you’ve installed the battery, of course, check it so that you can see the red up inside, and it works of course.

All right.

To mount the sight on the weapon it’s easy. I use the Allen key, the tool that I have in the box. I open it up, I put it on. I push it forward.  You lock it, and you have a sight installed on the weapon, and we just have to zero it.

Ready to go. Now one thing I want to show the folks at home. We’re in Sweden, and we have an interesting variation of the G 36C here. Normal G 36C except it has a side folding style collapsible butt stock that we normally don’t see in the United States, and it has XMA inspired controls, meaning the paddle on the magazine release extending back and internal bolt release right here, neither of which the standard G 36 has. I’m quite envious of this, and I’m going to hit up my buddies at HK and see if I can get some of this for my own G 36 at home.

Fixing to go hot and zero the micro.

You got a group like that.

Not bad.

Really good. Nice grouping. So what we do now is that we do some measurements. We start with the side. I think I see if it should hit in the center of the white here, we have five in the whole centimeters, and we knew that one click will be three, four and 25, if you count three it’s easier. So we go from here 17 clicks to the left.


If you look at the sight, you have one with the top and one on the side. The one on the side you just decide. So right now, we turn it against the arrow, 17 clicks, and you hear click and you can feel the clicks, and I will prepare to do the up and down movement.


Take from the center there. We have one and half centimeters. If we do five clicks, we will have one and a half centimeters.


Five clicks up, three, four, five. I’ll shoot three new rounds. I will see if you are close to target.

All right.

First and third one broke pretty good. Second one’s a little bit off. How does the group look?

Okay, we have one there, one here and one here. That means that you’re good on the sight level but we have to bring it down, and that’s because I measured little bit too high before. So three clicks down, four clicks down we are done.


First two broke clean. The last one broke just a little left. How did it look?

Well, we are in the circuit.

Good deal.

We can say that we have a good zeroing to start the 50 meters 100, 150.

Right. Push it back as far as you can.


Nice. Very similar to the approach I use. I general like to use five shot groups, but it works real well.

It’s important that you actually try the ballistics out of 25 meters. Everything will just grew, grew, grew, grew, and you have to check another distance. If you should use the weapon up to 300 meters, then you should also shoot the ballistics up to 300. Should you use it up to 400 meters, check the ballistics up to 400 meters because the most important thing is when you’re coming in to how to teach the soldiers how they should aim on different distances. If they are using the sight, there’s 200 ceiling that you have done, that means that they should not think about how they should aim from 5 meters up to 200 meters. Just place the red dot where you want to hit, and you will hit there plus minus five centimeters roughly. If you should shoot at 300 meters, aim at the head and hit in the chest. If you should shoot at 400 meters, aim above the head and you will hit in the chest.

All right. Eric, we want to thank you for taking me through the zero now, and what’s up next are some rare guns that we don’t normally get a chance to shoot in the United States.

We’re here in Sweden. They got some toys for us to play with. Standby we’re coming at you with them.

Hey, thanks for watching the Vickers Tactical YouTube Channel. To subscribe, click here and to watch some of my favorite videos, click here. Have a good one. LAV out.

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