Sig Sauer 1911 TACOPS Unbox & Field Strip Video

Hey everybody it’s Ferrari Steve. Today I’m gonna walk through unboxing and field stripping a Sig Sauer 1911 TACOPS, boy that is a sweet looking piece. Let’s take it out of the box and see what we get.

You get an owner’s manual. You get a total of four eight round magazines. These are actually made by Check-Mate they’re not bad mags. I really like the Wilson Combat magazines. These come with four of these Check-Mates and they’re not bad magazines.

You also get a lock, but I suspect if you’re like me you probably don’t use those that much. My gun is either secured on my person or secure in a lock safe. Then obviously, you get the 1911 itself.

Before we go through it, let’s do a quick safety check. I’m gonna get the magazine. I’m gonna lock the slide open. I’m gonna put a finger down inside to make sure we are empty and the gun is clear.

Let’s look at the features of this Sig Sauer gun. This is a full size 1911 based on the original 1911 design by John Moses Browning in the year 1911. I think fans of the 1911 are gonna like this gun.

I also think people how might want some of the newer features are also gonna like this gun. I think there’s a real broad market for this. This 1911 TACOPS was originally the design of this from Sig was the 1911 Blackwater. They also made a P226 in nine mil Blackwater. This is chambered in .45 auto by the way, which if you’re a true believer in 1911s, any real 1911 is chambered in .45 auto.

This was originally the Blackwater edition. Blackwater got some bad press. Sig discontinued that partnership. Now it’s the TACOPS. Hey, the first thing you notice about this gun is the color. It’s all black all business. That coating is what Sig calls Nitron it’s their corrosion resistance coating.

The gun itself is all stainless steel. It’s not light. A 1911’s not supposed to be light. It’s all business. I like the coating. I like the color. I think one of the other first things you notice is this battle hammer here. It’s skeletonized. It matches this skeletonized trigger. The original versions of these guns had a solid trigger. I think maybe the guys at Sig saw enough people swapping these out for the skeletonized trigger to match the hammer that they did it themselves.

This is a match trigger. It’s not a match trigger pull. The trigger pull is right around five pounds, which that’s the right trigger pull for a combat piece. For a target piece, you probably want closer to three, 3 ½. But I think that’s the right trigger pull for what this gun’s supposed to be.

Looking at some of the other features, you’ve obviously got a picatinny rail. It’s a true picatinny rail not one of the Sig rails or one of the other style of rails. You get a set of Sig night sights. I really like this rear sight. It’s the Wayne Novak style rear sight, low profile. It worked great. I’m a fan of those.

You’ve got checkered four grip. Checking on the back of the grip here, these are ergo brand XT grips here, which I like and you’ll, notice they are squared off on the bottom because it comes with a mag well making reloads faster.

I think there’s a lot of cool features of this gun. I really like it. Why don’t we put the box aside, and let’s walk through how to field strip it.

Two things to remember when you’re field stripping a 1911. One is go slow. Take your time. You’re in no rush. Number two is don’t force anything. The original 1911s they rattled. They rattled like a maraca. That’s by design.

They had loose tolerances so the parts could be swapped out easily in an armory. Listen to this Sig. That’s obviously the safety there, but it’s silent. It’s really tight, which means it’s important to keep this gun clean. Field stripping is important.

It’s also important to kind of take it apart slowly and carefully. Field stripping a 1911. We already did a safety check. You should do that first if you haven’t. You’re gonna want to rack the slide. The reason you want to do that is because you can’t engage the safety until it is. Oh, that brings you another feature of the gun ambidextrous safety and it’s kind of nubbed on both sides. I like that feature.

Engage your ambidextrous safety. Put the gun straight up. Then you’re gonna look at this barrel bushing here. You want to push down on your guide plug. You’re gonna want to turn your barrel bushing to the 9 o’clock position. That will allow you to slowly release the plug here. This is under a lot of spring tension. It’ll shoot right out. Hit you in the eye. Break your camera. That’s no good.

Take out the plug. Take out the spring. Now turn your barrel bushing to about the 4:30 position. That’s where the lugs inside are gonna release and again if it gives you any trouble just wiggle it. All right, you don’t need to force anything. It’ll come right out.

Notice also Sig really lubes these up nicely. I haven’t lubed this gun myself yet. This is all factory stuff. They do a nice job. At this point, you’re gonna want to turn your attention here to these little notches in the slide.

Obviously, this first notch here is squared off that’s so it can catch the slide stop and keep the slide open. You’re interested in this little round notch right here. Disengage the safety. Wiggle that slide back right so that circular notch is right above the square and the slide stop. See that?

There’s actually a little circular piece in there so when you flip the gun over, there’s a little pin here. Little bit of pressure, again not a lot of pressure just minor pressure. You’ll get some daylight in there. Now you can wiggle that slide stop right out.

Now you’re ready to pull the slide off. Push the slide forward a little bit. I like to flip the gun over here, slide it out, put my thumb in so I can grab the whole slide assembly. Then pull the frame right out.

I pull out my guide rod now. You’ll notice this is a standard size or GI or shorter or original guide rod or recoil spring guide you’ll hear it called too. This is the short original design from John M Browning and I like it. I’m a fan of the shorter ones just because I don’t think you need the full sized one or it’s not full size, the long one right. This is the original size. You could make an argument this is the full size.

Some people argue the longer ones make the gun heavier. Let’s you get back on target faster. Boy these 1911s they’re heavy guns anyway. I don’t think you need that extra weight. I’m a fan of the original design and the shorter guide rod.

Now, your barrel’s inside obviously and if you are a Glock owner or owner of even some nine mil Sigs you’re used to grabbing the barrel and pulling it out the back. That’s not how this one goes. It just comes out the front. Just grab the barrel, slide it out the front and the slide and the barrel are free.

There you go. Those are all your parts of your 1911 field strip. Now putting it back together, you go in the reverse order, but there are a few tricks. Let’s look at those.

Again, I go upside down. I like to push the barrel. Well you have to. Don’t just like to back in. Now, you are looking right here for this little loop. This is the barrel link. This is what allows you to connect the barrel to the rest of the gun. You’re gonna want this upright.

Grab your guide rod and you’ll notice it’s notched here. You can’t put it on wrong. Stick it in there. And now I hold this whole assembly again with my thumb upside down.

Now here’s why I like to assemble it well I hold it upside down, then I turn it right side up to put it on. Here’s why, on the frame of the gun if you invert it and move it or shake it you’re gonna get this little piece right here. See that little piece? It’s gonna pop up.

As you put the slide back on, tink, you’re gonna hit that and you’re gonna mar up your slide. I don’t mind getting my gun’s dirty. It’s the right thing to do, but I don’t like scratching them unnecessarily. I like to make sure this is down. It’ll sometimes pop back up again and catch.

I like to make sure it’s down. Have the frame upright. I grab my entire slide assembly. Make sure my link is upright. Hold the frame upright. Make sure that’s pressed down. Then I just slide it back together like this.

Now I only have to keep my thumb in place until my guide rod is just inside there. Once it’s in there it’s pretty much good to go. Again, it can’t go the wrong way. If you can see, it’s the right way up.

Now we want to talk about getting our little circular notch right back where it’s supposed to be right here, there just above that opening. Now at the same time, you’re gonna look down in the hole here and make sure that link is centered. If you don’t see the link hole in there, you can wiggle the barrel until you get it lined up. That’s what I was doing a little earlier there. Get that lined up.

Now grab your slide stop. Make sure you can get it in and through. Now don’t do this and then slide this up into place. You’ll notice on some 1911s a nasty scratch right there. That’s from guys popping it in and sliding it forward. I like to lift it up. Make sure I’m in the right spot. Get it on this plunger here. I put a little pressure. Again, I just wiggle it into place. Whoop I’m not exactly centered. There we go. Then wiggle it straight in.

Again, you shouldn’t have to force anything. If it doesn’t go easily like it didn’t just a second ago. I didn’t have it in the right place. I had to adjust something a little bit and make it just right. Do the same. You never have to force anything on this.

At this point, we’re ready to move the slide back forward so I can engage the safety. Stand it up on its nose or so the nose is up. Grab your barrel bushing. Take it to the 4:30 position. Slide it around to the 9 o’clock position. Now you’re ready to put in your spring.

Now I’ve heard rumors that the size of the plug here is the same size as a .45 ACP spent casing and that if you lose your plug you could use that in a pinch. I’ve never done that. I’ve never had to do that. I hope I never had to do it, but kind of interesting.

I didn’t have a .45 spent casing on me, but I found a 454 casull round and it drops in and sits there. It kind of looks cool. Apparently, a .45 casing will go in there and sit just flush though so you can get the bushing back on there.

We don’t need to do that today because we didn’t lose any pieces. Drop your spring back in. Grab your plug and again make sure you got a good grip on this a lot of tension. Push it all the way back down. Slide you’re bushing around until it catches right there and it’ll hold it down. Then you can just rotate it into place until it clicks nicely.

At this point, you’re gonna want to check as many functions as you can right. Make sure the safety works. Make sure you can rack the slide. Make sure you can disengage the hammer. If you want to dry fire it you should have snap caps but if you want to test one just for fun you can. The safety should not engage unless you’ve got it racked.

That is how you field strip and reassemble a Sig Sauer 1911 TACOPS. Don’t be afraid to go out there, get them dirty. Don’t be afraid to go out and make some noise. Keep in mind that the first time you have to use your gun you really don’t want that to be the first time you’ve ever used your gun. This is Ferrari Steve signing off. If you like what you see go ahead and subscribe. We’ll see you next time.