Real World AR-15 Zeroing Between Various Distances

To have military and police SOPs that you have to go by, that’s fine. But, as a thinker first, no matter what you have to do in your SOPs, you need to understand what your bullet’s doing. The bullet never lies, remember that. This is a 25 yard zero. Twenty five is pretty interesting because of the fact that… I look at things, I break it down into two categories to make it simple for you: combat effective zone and then hold-overs, two things. So what is my combat effective zone? Can I put my red dot, right here on my zero and shoot a combat effective zone without moving that dot. So if I move out to 50, there’s my impact. From there we move out to 75, 100, 200, 300 and then you can see after working back down to 400.

Just by holding this dot here every single shot at each of those shore lines, I get about a 15-inch combat effective zone. Is that effective in combat? Absolutely! So after a 400 a 25 yard zero, I can actually have this zone. Now 500 is at the knees, so that’s the hold over you’d have to remember. Combat effective zone 15-inches. Hey! Put a die on the chest, squeeze the trigger. The knees that’s 500, so if you got to shoot the 500, just move that length of the body up, put the dot up here and fire and you should hit the combat zone effective again. So that’s what’s great about the 25. The bad thing about it is when you’re zeroing at 25. It’s really easy to get a nice tight grip so the human error that you inputted into the fundamentals there with that small kind of deviation can be deceiving.

Keeping that in mind if you choose to use this zero because you like what you see again, make sure you can confirm at these ranges. If you want to see where you’re heading at 400, go shoot at the temple that I shot. I’m happy with this as long as my fundamentals are correct, I can use 25 yard zero. It just depends on your particular application. Just keep in mind that your combat effective zone is a little bit higher. If you’re inside of 200 and 300, you’re going to be hitting the neck. It’s not a whole lot of body. Just keep in mind that if you don’t like that high zone, let’s look around at some of the others. All right, so let’s go over the 50 yard now. – 50 yard zero… it’s okay.

Not bad but let’s take a look at it. So I have got my zero is at red. That’s where I shot that 50 yard bullet. 100, about an inch high; 200, right back down into the zero point; 300, now I start dropping down; 400, I struck right underneath that actually struck the plastic here so that’s not a bad effective zone. I’ve got a 9-inch combat effective zone at a 300 yard. You can’t ask for better than that. If I want to use that 400, I’m running 24-inch effective zone down here that’s still combat effective here. If I hit this guy in the mid-line waist, he’s going down. It’s going to put a hurt on him or it’s going to least take 4 other guys carry him somewhere. It’s still what we consider a combat effective hit… But it still is also considered a hold over if you want to precision shot with that.

Remember, 24 inch cut that a half, 12 just hold the face and you’ll hit him right at the chest. Down on the 500 for this holdover, you’re hitting on the feet or ankles. So just remember that distance, cut in half and you’ll be inside your combat effective zone. So getting a recap on the 50, great combat effective zone at that 300. You can still keep that 400 that’s just barely in there; 500 is at the ankles for the hold over… let’s go for the hundred… 100 yards zero. So looking at this first bullet that I fired at the hundred at the zero right in there. Now if I was inside cross quarter’s distances, point blank to 25 to 50 moving out to a hundred, I know that I’m always constantly holding-over.

It’s kind of easy that’s why a lot of people like it because you’re constantly having to aim-up for the four other acts you’d go. There’s no up or down like there is on somebody’s other targets because like if you notice back here, some of these 25 you’re starting to go up but at a certain point you start to come back down. Where is that point? Can you memorize that? Great. If you’re not a person that can memorize it then go something more simple. If you think you’re smart and you know you’re smart under stress and you can remember, that’s a whole different story cause I know some of the smartest people that can’t remember anything under stress, that’s why we kind of keep this simple and I like the way the human brain thinks, I’d just keep holding up.

So again, 25, 50 in closed quarters, a hundred yards zero, 200 , 300 starts dropping down, 400 is about the knees, 500 is at the feet. So now I really have 2 real hold-overs. I’ve got the 300 which is still a combat effective hit… but it’s great… I got a 4-inched effective zone at the 200; 16 at the 300; and then 400 is a hold-over; 500 is a hold-over. So that’s how I break down a hundred yards zero. Let’s go over here to the hundred yards zero. 200 is pretty interesting… We got is the zero 200 yards. Now I shot it in closer distances because typically we find ourselves shooting more closer that if we have to work out, then were passing that zero marking going to 4,5, 600 if you have to so what I did is added 25 of 50 in a hundred… Well what happen is they started to workout which is kind of interesting because you have a 2.5 inch and I confirm this with a ballistic calculator as well combat effectiveness is on the 200.

If you want to add the 300 in there, if you notice how much higher it is then from these other targets. So now we’ll add that 300 shot from here we have a 10 inch combat affect the zone out to 300… that’s pretty good, 400 is down to knees 500 is down at the ankles again so dramatically surge of dropping at that point. So again combat affects the zone after 300, 2 holdovers, pretty easy .let’s move over here to 300 yards zero… this is typical at marine chore uses this what I use for a long time, we count and started at 36 shards okay we have a 36 shard sheet that we’ll shoot out to confirm that our battle side zero is on the paper and then we’ll actually get the chance to actually get out and actually confirm all the ranges which is the good thing about this range… So I shot my 300 yard zero right here then of course our work in this CQB distances to see what would happen so in 25, 100 and 200 it starts to climb a little bit… But out of 300 from CQB to 300 I have a 5-inch combat effective zone that’s why we like using this after 300 my battle say dude it’s right there.

I pretty much have a good hold I can put that dodi down anywhere the chest I’m going to get in an combat effective hit somehow someway. 400 down in the gut. You add that together it’s a route of 14 inches more or I should say 14 inches total other combat affected zone including the four hundred mark, 500 is at the knees so I find personally the 36-yard confirmed with actual confirmation at 300 to make sure hitting at it 300 is a very good zero. I personally use the point in why I set the sample tosser so you can actually see all your combat effective zone and see what the different ballistics are with just different zeros, same gun, same ammo.

So, the point is choose the zero that works best for you in your lifestyle shooting with your military of fortune a competitor, you have a lot of options here. One is not better than the other, it depends on you and that’s why we’re not absolute you have to adapt to a new environment or new style of shooting where it may require different zero. One of these may work for that, I don’t know, but here’s the information now you pick what’s best for you.