Aimpoint PRO Review: Plus Lots of Mileage Video

Two o’clock.

High rack.

Twenty-five and a ha-

Fight.

Contact. Fight.

Here we go.

What’s going on guys? I’m just a regular guy with the regular guy firearms channel. Today we are actually going over a longevity review on the Aimpoint PRO (Patrol Rifle Optic). I’m actually kind of excited to do this video simply because I had forgotten that it was even a possibility. Amidst all the reviews and discussions I’d been putting down on the channel, I’d actually forgotten exactly how long I’d had this guy.

http://www.omahaoutdoors.com/aimpoint/

I’ve had it for a little over a couple years now. In that time, it has been everywhere. Honestly, it’s kind of like my whore optic because it goes from gun to gun to gun to gun on a constant basis. Just in the video clips that you’ve seen, you’ve seen it on three different rifles, actually four different rifles fairly quickly.

As it currently sits, it’s on the AR pistol here. We’re actually going to go over quite a few things. Number one, do the claims that Aimpoint puts out about this particular optic hold true and are there any issues with it? Is it a lower-quality optic than, let’s say, the CompM2 or M3? That’s what we’re going to do. Today we’re just going to go ahead and row through all of the extra little doodads that come with it and just come standard on pretty much any Aimpoint PRO optic. You have your elevation and windage adjustments where they’re supposed to be, elevation and then windage. You have the corresponding caps for them.

They thread on like they should. You guys will probably notice the paint that’s sitting on here. There’s probably like six different coats of Rust oleum paint on this guy that have been scraped off and repainted or the camo needed to be redone or some crap like that.

You’ll also notice that differing from all the other unboxing videos and clean gear videos that a lot of guys have done, the scope caps are missing on the thing. Honestly, here’s my take on that. Unless you’re running a precision bolt-action rifle or a precision rifle in general, you don’t need scope caps. You’re fine.

Glass clarity is one of the few things that I don’t really give a damn about in a blaster-type rifle. It is what it is. The battery actually that’s been in here has been in since I’ve originally owned the optic. The original battery is still in there. It’s been about two years and I don’t have any brightness issues. It doesn’t turn off inadvertently.

Because this optic is in a constant on, it hasn’t shut off in two years. I don’t have any terminal issues. I don’t have any issues as far as the electronics package is concerned. The dot turns on. It brightens up when I want it to and it turns way down when I want it to. It is what it is.

What’s also kind of neat about this is that some of you may have noticed a D-ball up front here. That is because I do train with nod [Phonetic] every once in a while. It says on the package this is night vision compatible. It is, to a pretty good degree. It helps you out quite a bit. I’ll turn this down to about as low as it will go. That’s setting one for your night vision.

Then of course, you have two, three, four, five, and then on number six is when you start into the daylight. Then you start going up until of course, that’s brighter than the fucking sun. It is what it is. You have five night-vision settings and then it crosses over immediately from there to where now you’re picking up two, three, four, five day settings.

There you go. A lot of guys in the past have asked me what particular setting do you run it on all the time. Honestly guys, I’m not going to sit here and tell you which click it’s on all the time. I just crank on the thing until I can see it well and not wash out my target.

The optic does that. There’s enough adjustability in the optic to where it is what it is. I understand why this question is posed to me though. A lot of guys are wondering what the difference is between the advertised battery life on a particular setting and what you would actually use it for. It’s been over two years and the battery hasn’t died, so good to go.

We’re going to go over a couple of things that I’ve noticed about this particular optic while I’ve had it in use. Here’s the deal, a couple of things that I really, really enjoy. First of all, it comes with a mount and it also comes with a CompM4-like mount. All you really have to do, for those of you that don’t know, is that if you want to take it off, just twist to the left until it unscrews.

What’s kind of neat about this little torch knob here is that you just turn on the thing until it clicks over. That first one usually just automatically tells you that you’re good to go. The second one I personally do just for a little bit of assurance. Here’s the thing. After a lot of use and after beating the shit out of this gun a lot, you get that little bit of wiggly-ness in there.

That play is nothing to be alarmed about. If it was something to be concerned about, I would have issues with the optic loosening up and falling off the gun. I have not had these issues. Also, you would have zero shifts before the optic falls off the gun and that doesn’t happen either.

An intermediate-distance rifle with tactical will tell you that right off the bat, first round, first hit, 280 yards, right in the heart, and the subsequent ten, 15 rounds after that. Throughout that day on a fast and accurate rifle, over 1200 rounds shot, no issues with accuracy.

The mount holds true and it does just fine. The rings also do just fine. What is kind of neat about this too is that unlike the vast majority of screws… Screw-based anything that I’ve ever had on guns in the past or optics, I would have to take off, apply Loctite, and put them back on before I start doing serious training.

This is because typically speaking; most of them just walk right the fuck out. I hadn’t paid much mind to it, but a buddy of mine had actually made a comment when I was talking about doing this review. He was like bro you haven’t applied Loctite on those rings have you? Then I realized, well shit, they haven’t loosened up at all.

Straight out of the factory, in the box, I haven’t had to worry about the rings loosening up or anything like that. Of course, the optic doesn’t play at all. It just kind of stays where it is supposed to stay. I’m actually very impressed.

Typical of military-style optics or optics that are used a lot. We have an issue that we run across with a lot of optics. This is a pretty serious problem with optics like the Trijicon ACOG. This particular problem has to do with the elevation and windage screws.

Every once in a while if I’m trying to get a zero on the thing… For instance, going from my dandard offense mid-length gun to this carbine-length pistol, the zeroes were way off, very, very different from each other. That required a lot of adjustment, clearly. In the middle of those adjustments, the windage screw froze up on me.

A lot of guys don’t talk about this because they just keep cranking it over and then they’re like, oh the zero is not shifting, until finally it does. Then it’s a massive over-exaggerated, way to the fucking right or way to the fucking left adjustment, when all they were trying to do was move over five clicks at 50 yards or some shit like that.

The turrets in these actual optics can freeze up sometimes. I forget exactly why they do that. It’s a little different between this optic and an ACOG. For those of you who have better knowledge of this, put that crap in the comments below, because guys are going to ask the questions.

These guys have frozen up on me before. I’ve never actually encountered that on an Aimpoint type optic before. I’ve encountered them on ACOG’s and I’ve encountered them on an ELCAN once on the M145. I’ve encountered that particular problem one time, where either the elevation or the windage screws just won’t actually make the adjustments known. You’ll make your three or four clicks and it won’t move three or four clicks.

Then you just keep making those adjustments and then finally after the 12th click, it finally shifts over. Suddenly you’re 12 clicks down instead of the four you wanted to be. An easy way to solve that problem when you’re making adjustments… It’s just globally, every single time you do it. When you unscrew the cap and make your adjustments, just knock on the doors.

Just knock on them with a fair amount of tension or fair amount of power into the turret. You don’t have to sit there and beat the shit out of it with a hammer. All you do is just sit there and knock on the doors and it will make sure that those turrets don’t freeze up.

I’ve never had it happen to me on an Aimpoint before so when I ran into that issue, it was just one of those, huh, deals. It is what it is. I’ve been beating the absolute crap out of the optics, so it makes sense that the turrets froze up once.

Other than that guys, the optic’s been great. It’s very, very accurate. When I make adjustments with it or for instance when I’m doing a zero at 50 or 100 or 200, 300 yards… I’ve done that type of zero with several different rifles, at all of those ranges with this particular optic. It’s a half-minute-adjusting optic and at all of those ranges it moves a half minute for all of it.

I’m actually very impressed. For around a $400-ish price tag, for an Aimpoint and none of this fake point bullshit, you get a legit Aimpoint that is still very robust, still very tough, battery life is around three years, it’s really hard to beat guys.

Remember I’m on the Facebook page now. I’ll leave a link to that in the description below. If you have questions for me or of anyone else, just go ahead and either leave it in the comments section below, or check out the Facebook page and post whatever subject you want to post there. Other than that, guys remember, a regular guy’s firearm is to last defense against tyranny. Be easy.